Broccoli was once one of our favorite vegetables, but for some reason it's faded into the background in recent years. We just haven't been making it, eating it or craving it. At a recent farmers market, though, I saw a gorgeous head of broccoli practically glowing with angelic light.

The craving was back.

At first I didn't have any particular use in mind for it. A stir fry? Just steamed in all it's pristine glory? Then as I unloaded the food into the fridge my mind flashed to a dish that Launie and I used to make all the time a decade ago - a Chinese broccoli sesame salad. This salad is the exception to the rule of using sesame oil sparingly. The sesame oil-based sauce brings a sweet, tangy richness and the broccoli keeps it crunchy and light. It's great as a side dish or a light lunch. It's simple and quick to prepare, but there is some wait time to let the flavors fully develop.

We based ours on a recipe from one of the first cookbooks I ever bought, The Modern Art of Chinese Cooking by Barbara Tropp. It's a great book, covering everything from slicing and cooking techniques to simple stir fries and homemade dumplings and baozi. Tropp's recipe is actually for Cold-Tossed Asparagus with Sesame Seeds. Asparagus is another favorite vegetable of ours, but Launie and I have always used broccoli. One of these days we'll try it with asparagus, but for now we celebrate farm-fresh broccoli.

Cold-Tossed Broccoli with Sesame Seeds

1 head of fresh broccoli
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons sesame oil
3-4 teaspoons white sugar
2 teaspoons white vinegar
2 teaspoons soy sauce
2-6 dashes chili oil or "fire oil" (red pepper flakes also work)
3 teaspoons untoasted sesame seeds

Rinse broccoli and cut into large chunks. Don't throw away the stalk. Soak in a salt and water mixture for 20-30 minutes. Strain and wash thoroughly.

While the broccoli is soaking, put the sesame seeds in a small, heavy pan over medium heat. Stir with a wooden spoon or toss the seeds frequently and adjust the heat so that they toast evenly. You're looking for a light golden brown. This should take four to six minutes. Set the seeds aside to cool.

Cut broccoli down into small, bite-sized pieces, trying to keep the florets from breaking apart. Trim the woody exterior off of the broccoli stem and slice the useable portions into thin strips.

Boil an inch or so of water and place a steamer basket filled with the broccoli in the pot. Cover and cook 1-4 minutes, depending on the size of your pieces. You want just cook off the rawness of the broccoli but leave behind as much crunch as you can. Shock the broccoli under cold water or place in an ice bath. Once cooled, drain and pat dry.

Mix the sesame oil, vinegar and soy sauce together. Add the sugar in smaller increments, tasting as you go to find the proper balance. Do the same with the chili oil. Set aside for 10-15 minutes.

Mix the dressing, broccoli and most of the toasted sesame seeds. Cover and set aside in the refrigerator for 1-2 hours.

Top with the remaining sesame seeds and enjoy.

Serves 2-4, depending on your particular cravings.

(Photos by Jedd Kettler)