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Written by Jedd Kettler
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Sunday, 18 November 2012 18:43 |
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Gas masks, protective goggles and amazing food. Those ideas seem incongruous.
Or so I thought years ago, before I met Launie and before I heard the details of her family's tradition of making horseradish from scratch. The first time Launie told me stories about members of her family donning gas masks to protect themselves from the intense fumes of the horseradish-preparation process, I was convinced it was just my favorite raconteur indulging her imagination for comedic and dramatic effect. I mean, everyone knows horseradish packs a punch. Why tell tall tales?
I was just naive, though. When you cut below the outer skin of a horseradish root, enzymes begin to break down and that famous and much-loved aroma is released. That aroma, though, is much more intense during the preparation than it is when you open a jar of the finished product. It attacks both your eyes and your nose and it's not for the faint of heart. While Launie's description of members of her family wearing gas masks may have been a slight exaggeration, it's not much of one. They wore air-tight goggles. (See the description that Ginny, Launie's mother, gives below.) Launie can be forgiven a little literary license: Making homemade horseradish is serious business and so are the delectably intense results.

You might think you're a knowledgeable connoisseur of horseradish. You might use it in everything from a mustard dip to a Bloody Mary or a borscht to a cocktail sauce. You might think you understand the powerful, sinus-clearing properties of this distinctive ingredient. But if you've only used store-bought horseradish, you don't know the half of it.
Making horseradish is to cutting onions as skydiving from the edge of the atmosphere is to jumping off a ladder. While a gas mask might not be necessary, it doesn't seem unreasonable.
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Written by Launie Kettler
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Friday, 16 November 2012 13:02 |
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I'm not a big fan of sweets other than fruit, and I'm also not a huge blue cheese fan. But, the combination of sugar-coated almonds and blue cheese in this salad elevates both ingredients. It's ridiculously good.
Ridiculously. Good.
I've been trying to really get into blue cheese for over a decade. Sometimes I enjoy it in a dish, and other times its power overwhelms the things it should compliment.
Jedd on the other hand is simply squeamish about the idea of eating moldy cheese, which isn't unreasonable. When the subject comes up he's been known to turn indignant. “It's moldy cheese! Why would you eat something like that?” And that always reminds me of our friend Emily and a conversation we had once about meatloaf. “It's a loaf. Of meat. Why would anyone eat a loaf of meat?!?”
So, I understand if you're not a blue cheese fan and the combination doesn't sound fantastic. But it is. Jedd wasn't even indignant, although he was wary. However, the salad won us both over. The cheese and bacon are salty and they play off of the sweetness of the apples while the brown sugar-coated almonds and the tart vinaigrette bind it together perfectly.
Another great thing about this salad is that it's a show stopper without showing off. There's just a few nuts and only about a tablespoon of cheese so the real star is the apples.
First, though, lets make those delectable almonds, which kind of turned me into a candy-snacking fiend.
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Written by Launie Kettler
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Monday, 12 November 2012 15:06 |
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I'm going to divulge a deep and dirty secret about being a food blogger. We live and die by daylight. Artificial overhead light ruins the look of food and the right light is tricky.
So, when the fall/winter light disappears by 3 p.m. in our north-facing apartment, it's difficult to take photos. Although, I do foolish things to still keep shooting. I've taken photos in the dark with the camera on a tripod - which can help. And I've tripped over our cats to get to the tripod, in the dark because I have to shut off all of the lights in the room to get the last glimpse of sunlight before twilight, without any incandescent light to confuse the camera.
“Ow, ow, ow.” Silly cats and coffee table.
And because I've been picking up a lot of food writing jobs with deadlines that don't necessarily coincide with weather, it's been getting ridiculous to keep up with the daylight.
So, a couple of weeks ago I said to Jedd: “I would love studio lights so that I can take photos past three o'clock in the afternoon.”
The next day he was home from work and watched me frantically cook and photograph a dish for a client before dusk, and then he got...weird.
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Written by Launie Kettler
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Sunday, 04 November 2012 13:35 |
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We are flush with vegetables and gourds from our winter CSA. And one of my favorite things in the world was prevalent this week – tomatillos. So, I whipped us up a batch of tomatillo salsa, and that was dinner one night with nachos.
Then when the winter turned colder almost immediately (Hey, Hurricane Sandy, hey!) and we still - thankfully - had power, I realized that what we needed to fight the chill was a big batch of green chicken chili. And because I already had the fresh salsa on hand, I knew that I could have dinner on the table in less than an hour.
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Written by Launie Kettler
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Saturday, 27 October 2012 20:54 |
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Poor Demeter. Her daughter, Persephone, was taken by Hades and carried away to the underworld. Demeter was the goddess of agriculture and the earth withered as crops dried up because Demeter was only concerned with finding her daughter. The cries of the hungry forced Zeus to get involved, and he ordered Hades to release Persephone from the underworld and return her to her mother.
But, there was one small hitch in the plan.
Hades had tricked Persephone into eating four pomegranate seeds. Normally consuming food would destine someone to spend eternity in the underworld, but Zeus managed to convince Hades to release Persephone anyway, with one small caveat.
She had to spend a month back there for every seed consumed.
So when Persephone is imprisoned below earth, Demeter is so saddened that she can't concentrate on tending to crops and that's why we have four months of winter.
Or six, if you live in Vermont.
But, it's easy to empathize with Persephone. It's very difficult to resist the beautiful seeds of a pomegranate. And this salad lets them shine in a bright champagne vinaigrette.

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